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I entered Nagorno Karabagh just on second day of my presence on Caucasus. My plane from Moscow landed in Yerevan about 4.00 am. About 4 hours later I was sitting in Lada of my internet friend I met several months before and 2 other great Armenian guys. Our target was Karabagh ...

And here I would like to express my extreme thanks to my Armenian friends Mihran, Armo and Emin - thanks to them this was possible and unforgettable.


A little about Karabagh

Formally, according to the international law,  Nagoro Karabagh (in Armenian language 'Artsakh', name 'Karabagh' appeared in 13th century and it means "Black Gardens"), 4.400 km2 area country, is a part of Azerbaijan. 

After the war won by Armenian rebels from Karabagh they proclaimed Republic of Nagorno Karabagh. Independence of this state is not recongised by any country in the world, however it has it representative offices in Yerevan, Moscow, Washington, Paris, Sydney and Beirut). Karabagh has it own president, parliament and army.

Most of published maps of Armenia and Karabagh are not well printed. They show Karabagh separated from Armenia by Azerbaijani areas. In real those territories are controlled by Armenian and Karabagh forces. At these maps the only entrance to Karabagh is by Goris. In fact, the other entrance is possible - on the north, by Vardenis (I also passed this way).

Karabagh is a very poor place. Country is ruined by war ended 10 years ago. Everywhere are signs of military operations - destroyed military equipment, abandoned homes (mainly Azeri), mined areas ...

However, young "state" attempts to improve its situation. There are some investments made during last years.





Travelling around Karabagh is safe, except mined territories, where is a need to be careful. Local people are friendly and helpful. Army and police too. There are not many tourists in this country, so authorities are not interested to make any troubles in travelling there. And visiting this place is great experience, really beautiful place.




To enter Karabagh You foreigners (not Armenians) need a visa. Visa is issued by Permanent Representative of Nagorno Karabagh Republic in Armenia (Moskovian Str. 11, e-mail: Office is open in 10.30-13.00 and 14.00-17.00. Visa costs 25 USD + 1000 DRAMs. You will need Your passport, 1 photo and to fulfil visa form. Moreover after entering into Karabagh you need to visit Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic in Stepanakert ( and register there.

For any other details about visas feel free to contact me.


A short story from Karabagh You can also read at website (belonged to producers of Globe Trekker, Pilot Guides and Planet Food TV programs).





Presented photos were taken by me and my Armenian friends.

Photos are presented on 2 separated websites:


1. Shushi, Mamik i Dadik, Kapin Tzov, Gandzasar, Taq Jur

2. Dadivank, Varied photos








Tatik & Papik :)




Kapin Tzov





Gandzasar (1216-1238)







Taq Jur - ... in the middle of nowhere ...


It is amazing place, on official maps somewhere between Karabagh and Armenia. We came there in the middle of the night and we saw ... geyser of hot water!

So ... we had some wine ... bath ... and great time ...